Monday, February 23, 2009

Winter Dining Deals in the Hamptons

This past weekend, my companion and I were reading the New York Times while taking the LIRR to East Hampton (we are big fans of off-season travel). I opened to the Escapes section and coincidentally happened upon the "Hamptons Before The Crowds" article. It mentioned winter deals at several lodging options (but conspicuously omitted the Mill House Inn, which is where my companion and I like to stay... on this visit, we had a great rate on a suite with a king bed, flat-screen TV, Serenity air jacuzzi, flat-screen TV, dual-head shower, and, of course, that famous breakfast).

It just so happens that the winter dining deals in the Hamptons are just as impressive as the lodging deals! Prix-fixe menus under $30 abound, especially on weekdays. My companion and sampled three of them during our stay.

We were most impressed by the $25 (three courses, or two courses with a glass of wine) prix-fixe at the 1770 House (29 Newtown Lane, East Hampton, 631-324-6300). In this historic dining room, the menu is divided into "From The Sea" and "From The Farm" sections. We ordered the organic smoked salmon tartare with potato crisps, an heirloom beet salad sprinkled with candied walnuts, perfectly seared diver scallops, and fettucini with black truffles, trumpet mushrooms, peas and Parmesan - the fettucini with Maine lobster was not available. The molten chocolate souffle cake with chunky peanut butter gelato is a must-try!

Nick and Toni's (136 North Main St., East Hampton, 631-324-3550) serves a special $30 Film and Food menu, which includes a ticket to the movies! My companion went with the $35 prix-fixe, choosing a chopped radish and cucumber salad, skirt steak on a bed of white beans, and chocolate custard. I ordered the creamy fennel soup special, a wonderful rigatoni with cauliflower, breadcrumbs and hot chili, and the poached pear hazelnut crisp. The next evening, we found ourselves at Della Femina (99 North Main St., East Hampton, 631-329-6666), which is quite popular with wine lovers. Some nights feature a free glass of house red or white. A $25 prix-fixe is served Sunday through Thursday, while a $30 menu is served on Friday and from 5:30-6:30 on Saturdays. What I most remember from this evening, besides the copious amount of wine, is the flourless chocolate souffle cake (obviously, I can't get enough of this dessert).

Hamptons Restaurant Week is coming up (March 29-April 5), and the $24.95 menus look mighty enticing. If you decide to pay a visit to the East End, here's my lodging tip: make a reservation at the Mill House Inn (31 North Main St., East Hampton, 631-324-9766) and enjoy the Restaurant Week discounts: $25 off for one night, or a $50 per night discount on more than one night. (Super suites are discounted by $50 or $100.)
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Tuesday, February 17, 2009

Patel Brothers

The weak economy has many of us turning towards comfort food. A dish of rice and beans is protein-packed, filling, and cheap. But did you know that it can also be... exciting? Walk down the vast aisles of Patel Brothers in Jackson Heights and you'll be amazed at all the varieties of rice and beans. The back wall holds a rainbow of orange, yellow, white, green, and brown lentils (urad? toor? masoor? chana? moong? I can't even keep track of them all). There are all kinds of grains - thin and thick flattened rice (poha), giant bags of rice, spicy flour rings, and puffed lotus seeds.

Endless condiments and spices line the shelves. Mango, lime, garlic pickles? Mint or onion chutney? (I think I'll have to bring a dictionary of Indian spices with me the next time I visit. How to use... amla? asafoetida?) There is also a fresh produce section, and a freezer packed with novelties like mint-chili "paneer poppers" and cashew-raisin ice cream. And if the spicy cornflakes in the breakfast aisle are just too adventurous for you, look past them; there's a box of... Cheerios.

Patel Brothers: 37-27 74th St., Jackson Heights, (718) 898-3445.
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Wednesday, February 11, 2009

Sweets News

Today's items focus, unsurprisingly, on chocolate!
  • Jacques Torres will be giving a talk and holding a chocolate tasting at the 92nd Street Y on Monday, March 16, at 8 pm. (On a recent visit to his Brooklyn store, I was told that all of the nut butters used in the chocolates are homemade. So we can indulge in Mr. Torres' chocolate/peanut-butter truffles without worry! My undying favorite will always be the cinnamon-praline...)
  • In other Jacques Torres-related news, on Friday, February 13, Harrah's Resort Atlantic City will be handing out Jacques Torres chocolates (and 5,000 free overnight Waterfront Tower stays!) to celebrate Mr. Torres' new Atlantic City store, Temptations Fine Chocolate and Coffee. The promotion takes place from 8:00 -10:00am at the corner of 48th St. & 6th Ave., and from noon - 1:00pm at the Jacques Torres Hudson Store (350 Hudson St.).
  • Have you left Valentine's Day gifts till the last minute? Junior's has the solution: a chocolate ganache-covered cheesecake, baked in the shape of a heart. Call 1-800-9-JUNIOR!
  • In April, Francois Payard released a fantastic new cookbook: "Chocolate Epiphany." His store on Lexington Avenue is offering a free postcard with one of the most popular recipes from the cookbook: spicy chcolate pots de creme.
  • Finally, I just have to put in a word about Grom's hazelnut hot chocolate - if you haven't been drinking it all winter, make this the week to discover it!
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Tuesday, February 03, 2009

Onda

The news from the Financial District is not all grim; a mini-Restaurant Row is taking root on Front Street between Peck Slip and Beekman. The latest opening is that of 2 1/2-week-old Onda. With its strong drinks, light bossa soundtrack, and cuisine full of zest and spice, this pan-Latin place might take the edge off one's longing for a Caribbean vacation. (I am suffering from such a longing, but whenever I choose a specific travel date, the vacation price inexplicably doubles.)

The room evokes a poolside courtyard at a tropical resort. Mexican tiles adorn the banquettes, and dim aqua light shimmers from the lanterns reflecting off of the metallic epoxy floor. Last night, a friend and I sat at a corner table at the back of the room, admiring the scene.

Our server brought by a Havana-style mojito and a bourbon drink with orange liqueur. The mojito was chock-full of mint, not too sweet, and so deceptively strong that I had to pause after drinking about an inch of it. It was a good time to pause, because just then, a basket of warm Manchego flatbread and paprika-dusted garbanzo spread arrived.

"What shall we order?" I wondered. There were salads, ceviches, hot appetizers, fish, meat, a paella and several sides. Several dishes sported an Asian influence, as chef Raymond Mohan is inspired by Chinese-Peruvian cuisine - a snapper ceviche contained tapioca pearls, and there was a Chifa-style fish.

We decided on two ceviches, smoked duck flatbread, Chifa-style branzino, Lima-style chicken, "Spanish" fries and asparagus. We were completely unprepared for the sheer amount of food that soon graced our table - the portions were exceedingly generous! The hamachi tiradito was a plate of rich yellowtail sashimi slices, dotted with small pineapple chunks and drizzled with yuzu creme fraiche. Striped bass ceviche in citrus sauce, served in a transparent red dish, had a real jalapeno kick - the accompanying passionfruit sorbet soothed the bite. We were to find that many of the dishes were accented with tropical fruit, but the main ingredients were never overpowered by it.

The smoked duck flatbread was a sort of pizza. A long oval dough was smothered with earthy porcini spread and melted Manchego. Rosy pink duck slices lay atop the cheese, each one with a sherried cherry. (This dish is a good choice for those who shrink from spicy.)

We were already approaching fullness at this point, but the impressive main courses soon followed. When my whole grilled branzino first arrived, I worried that it would be overwhelmed by its soy broth, but this was not the case at all - the soy-ginger sauce was very light and not salty, and the fish was as flavorful as could be. It was topped with cilantro leaves, scallions and jalapenos.

At $18, the Lima-style chicken was a feast for a king - a crispy-skinned half-chicken came with a spicy red onion slaw ("These are my favorite flavors," remarked my friend, "red onion, cilantro and jalapenos." She had obviously come to the right place!). We were embarrassed by how little we could finish of the thin asparagus slices in spicy aioli and the formidable mountain of Spanish fries. For the latter, a fork was a must - Idiazabal cheese was melted all over the potatoes. There were also red onions and jalapenos over top, but I forked them aside in favor of the buttery cheese.

We didn't expect to order dessert after all of this, but it's funny how that happens. Soon we were diving into caramelized rum bananas in a crispy cookie shell, and Chinese spoons containing eggless basil ice cream sprinkled with salted almond praline, and a truly remarkable warm chocolate cake. (A spoonful of fruit was intended for mixing in with the cake, but the dessert was already perfect with its scoop of vanilla bean ice cream.)

A good cup of coffee is essential at any Latin American restaurant, and I was supplied with a smooth Essse espresso. Sipping contentedly, I looked at my friend and said, "All we need now is a hammock."

Onda Restaurant: 229 Front St., (212) 513-0770.
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Sunday, February 01, 2009

Falai Panetteria

Falai Panetteria, the most casual of Iacobo Falai's three restaurants, is well-known for pear-chocolate tarts, chocolate fondants, tiramisu and other desserts. But what I didn't know is that the place serves an outstanding veggie lasagna (I have yet to try the bolognese). Light on the cheese, but heavy on sauce bursting with vibrant tomato flavor and a variety of tender vegetables, it set me back only around $10 tonight. Of course, that wasn't the only thing my friend and I ordered...

...there was also a great spinach gnocchi covered with melted Parmesan and smothered in fresh pesto, and a plate of rare, herb-crusted tuna slices on bruschetta, which were also topped with marvelously sweet roasted cherry tomatoes. I also have to mention the generous basket of focaccia with which we sopped up every last bit of pesto. Not one dish crossed the $13 mark, so we felt free to order to our hearts' (and appetites') content.

We finished with a "black moon" dome filled with chocolate mousse and spiced cream on a biscuit base - a disc of white and dark chocolate adorned the top. I restrained myself from taking home some of the semolina tarts that I'd enjoyed on a previous visit, but I know I'll be back soon - to try the lasagna bolognese.

Falai Panetteria: 79 Clinton St., (212) 777-8956.
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